faux painting: make your cheap laminated furniture look like beautiful solid wood
It is convenient and practical, and it is also a cheap option if you are not ready to buy high quality furniture.
The problem is, it looks cheap.
It is not very attractive and does not give any character to your home.
You don\'t need to live with it though.
With a little artificial painting, you can completely change the look of your plain laminated furniture to make it look like solid wood.
What do you need, you can use your own laminated furniture or buy cheap furniture from a thrift store or department store.
Don\'t worry if they are used and a little scratched or worn;
You can buy them cheaply and your artificial paint work will make them look perfect.
To get the best results and avoid arm fatigue, you need an electric sander.
A small palm sander or track Sander is enough.
You also need a pack of medium granularity (60 to 80 grain)
Sandpaper and a pack of fine grain (
100 to 120 capsules)sandpaper.
Get high-quality adhesive primer such as shellac or acrylic resin.
Be sure not to buy base or oil primer; use water-based only.
You will need a base color coat of the color of your choice and an extra wood grain color (
More tips on color selection).
It must have been made of satin.
The satin is just right for a smooth and glossy fit, and when the glaze is dry it will go on easily and look realistic.
A quart of water
Acrylic clear glaze.
These glazes are great for working with artificial paint and creating a variety of different patterns and designs.
Don\'t try to finish this project without glaze as the Mark doesn\'t show up very well.
You need all kinds of cheap, professional artificial wood grain tools.
The easiest tools to use are combs and rock singers.
The teeth of the comb are very short, sometimes there are twoor three-sided.
The tooth spacing on each side is different in order to produce a finer texture or a wider texture effect with one tool.
The rocker is like a curved piece of wood with a rubber-textured pattern on it.
They have different sizes and styles so choose what you like.
They slide through the glaze to create a slender grain design, even a knot.
You may be surprised and impressed by how easy and fun to use these tools.
Finally, you need a clear acrylic closure spray.
Get a smooth surface and give your wood a polished look.
Use a brand marked \"non\"
Yellow and UV protection;
This will prevent discoloration of your work.
In addition to that, you will need your standard drawing tools: Roller, roller Pan, rag, oil cloth or drip cloth.
If the edge to enter is tight, use the brush.
Step 1: Polish if you \'ve tried painting the laminate and found it peeling and looks more like a mess than when you get it, then you know it\'s not an easy task.
Since the laminated surface is smooth and free
The porous paint does not attach well to them.
You don\'t need to touch it often before the wear starts to appear.
Laminate and veneer can be painted;
But to make the paint work durable, they need a little effort and elbow grease during the preparation phase.
Polishing is a key factor in success.
Completely worn out surface.
Starting with medium-grained sandpaper, once all the gloss is dim, switch to fine sandpaper and check again.
Use a dust cover and a protective eye cover. You don\'t want to breathe in plastic dust, and you don\'t want it to get into your eyes. Work in a well-
The same is true in the ventilation area, where dust is stopped occasionally.
Once the entire part is completely polished clean on each surface, wipe it several times with a damp cloth.
The rest of the dust will also prevent the paint from sticking to it.
Remove all the dust and let the debris dry.
Step 2: Use a high quality adhesive primer to further ensure that the paint is well attached.
White pigment shellac is a great choice, although you can also use acrylic primer.
Apply the primer using a roller with a 3/8 nap.
Let it dry for 24 hours before painting.
Step 3: base CoatTo choose the right color for the base coating, look at the wood samples and decide which color you like?
Dark brown cherry wood with red highlights?
Pick up the paint color similar to the wood color you want.
Apply it to satin paint.
Paint the base coating and let it dry.
Apply the second layer and give it enough drying time.
Stay for hours or overnight.
Step 4: choose another satin finish latex paint color for glaze.
Get a darker tone than the darker wood lines you have, or some darker shades of the brighter Wood lines.
Mix it with crystal clear water 50/50
Based on acrylic glaze, stir until fully combined.
Work with glaze on the side of the furniture at a time.
If you apply the glaze to the whole block, it may start to dry before you start the wood grain technique.
Instead, work on a complete shelf, a drawer surface, or the top surface of the workpiece.
Decide which part you want to start with and then roll over the glaze.
Step 5: The interesting part is the wood grain.
Bring the wood grain tool of your choice and pass through the wet glaze.
If you are using a wood-grain comb, just keep it at an angle of 45 degrees and pull it over the grain.
If you are using a wood-grain rocker, start at one end and gently shake the tool back and forth as you pass it through the glaze.
It is not necessarily perfect.
The wood grain comes from nature and naturally does not make the natural wood straight or even uniform, so you should not worry that your lines are a little bent or a little changed.
Don\'t worry about mistakes. You can pull the comb or rocker to the glaze for the second time, erase the first attempt, and create a new one at the same time.
It is very forgiving, so you can continue to browse the same section until you like what you see.
If it\'s a bit dry, roll on another glaze and try again.
Comb or shake (or across)
Your glaze is arranged continuously to give it a board effect.
After completing a surface, apply the glaze on the second surface.
Use the wood pattern rocker or the wood pattern comb again to create more wood pattern.
Continue the process until you are satisfied with the results.
Use tools alternately to make each board look slightly different.
You don\'t want it to be exactly the same, and you don\'t want it to look natural, it looks like a repetitive pattern.
Let the glaze dry completely.
Let the block rule for a few days.
Don\'t put anything on it, like a heavy book that will settle down and damage the surface.
Step 6: sealer takes your entire work outdoors or in the garage.
You need a very good one-
Use the ventilation area of the sealer.
If you can\'t take it outdoors, take it to a place where you can open the windows and doors and create a ventilated cross-breeze.
Put it on the drip cloth and cover all the furniture and fabric around with the drip cloth or newspaper.
Lift the jar of the acrylic seal
Come down and shake hard for about 2 minutes.
Starting from the top, hold the tank nozzle about 14 inch from the surface of the furniture.
When you work along the lens, press the nozzle to sweep back your arm.
Spray it with a sweep and don\'t let your arms stop or stand still.
Pay attention to completely covering one surface or side at a time.
Let it stay still within 24 hours.
Spray on the second layer of the acrylic seal, shake the jar thoroughly and apply it the same way.
Two coats are enough, but the third one is ideal if you can keep it the same for another night.
Before applying any heavy objects to the sealed surface, give it a few days for curing.
Put your furniture back and decorate it.
Your home looks like you bought a brand new set of solid wood furniture.